Friday, August 7, 2015

Trappe-d

La Trappe Oak-Aged Quadrupel

This favorite of mine is packaged in corked (synthetic these days) and caged 375mL bottles, and is expensive. This particular bottle is from Batch 16 (my favorite is of course Batch 7, aged in whisky barrels. From reading descriptions, it seems possible that Batch 8 might be similar) and is a blend of brandy, Oloroso sherry, late Burgundy, and two levels of toasted new oak. With a five-way blend, the monks (though La Trappe is one of the more commercial trappist breweries) must be zeroing in on something; this batch was blended last year.

I should note that La Trappe used to be named Koningshoeven, but the Batch 7 bottles bear the La Trappe brand, so it is possible that the name change predates this barrel aging project (which seem to be a more recent development in general.) So I believe any Koningshoeven bottles you find are guaranteed to be several years old. Also, due to pricing, La Trappe can sit on shelves for a while—not  always a bad thing as their quad has aging potential. I have a recollection of a tripel (I think it was La Trappe) which was markedly superior on draft to in bottles, which surprised me. Try for yourself and let me know; it's a bit of a rarity in this market either way.

The cork smells okay even though it is difficult to remove and feels almost waxed. The pour smells hot, but with the nutty oxidized (the sherry, not the beer) character imparted by the fortified wine barrels. Tastes pretty good, and there's a lot more grape here than I'd have expected, which might explain the significant (20% overall) presence of new oak in the blend. The finish has that nutty sherry character as well as a bit more heat than I'm used to from this line. I have to really pay attention for it to taste like beer at all, but there's a great quad buried in there somewhere!

Ultimately, this beer is good, but not 'Batch 7 good' and not something I'd seek out or buy again. Conversely, I'd be willing to pay more for Batch 7 than this, provided I could afford it.

Thursday, August 6, 2015

Not ready to give up the ghost / Going off the rails on a ghost train

"Freigeist" literally translates to 'free ghost' though I suspect it means something more along the lines of 'free spirit' inspite of the cartoon ghost on the outstanding packaging. I love the hand-lettering; very German and reminiscent of old movie titling, like from Metropolis.

Freigeist Ottekolong Unfiltered Kölsch

I poured this one into a tall glass. Not a real kölsch cylinder, but as close as I could manage. It's got way more funk that I'd expect for the style, so kölsch may be a misnomer. Just what exactly it smells like is really hard to pin down. 'Dishwater' sounds more negative than I mean to, but is not inaccurate. Taste-wise, it's full-bodied, with some earthy hops that to me taste kinda like arugula. It did say it was going to be hoppy, though only by German standards. Anyway, it's decent, and much less expensive than other beers I've had by the same brewery.

Burnside Brewing 'Merkur,' She Wrote Pale Ale

I didn't make notes on this, but I had a pint at a meeting with someone who owed me a favor and brought me back a cake of tea straight from China, but that's another story for another blog, one that doesn't exist yet.

Anyway, this beer promised, earthy hops, and boy does it deliver. One to try even for non-hop-lovers as it was under 50IBU, and not remarkably bitter. Well balanced, tasty, and showed off a (German, but I suppose I might've guessed) hop varietal I wasn't aware of. Not on their website, so possibly a one-off. Who knows if it will ever get bottled? (Buy a ticket to PDX, take the MAX to Lloyd Center [my home!], start walking south, and) Get down to East Burnside and try some!


Freigeist Geisterzug Traditional Spiced Gose

I've said this before and gotten weird looks, but actual German gose isn't necessarily that sour. Just like English IPA's aren't necessarily that bitter, I suppose. The style does involve some lacto souring, but in my limited experience, isn't any tarter than a berliner Weiße (no, you don't capitalize 'berliner,' but you do capitalize 'Weiße'... it's a long story.) Anyway, this one is named 'ghost train,' and I've got a one-way ticket to Beertown on the express line.

It's a potent smell, especially since it's warmed to near room temperature. I guess some of it's coriander, but I cheated and looked that up. A little bit tart and a little bit funk, but pretty complex and weighty, on account of the wheat. Not Reinheitsgebot compliant, Wikipedia notes that gose receives an exemption for being a traditional beer style (which sort of defeats the purpose).

To say nothing of the fact that the Reinheitsgebot is now defunct (replaced by a different law), and that its real purpose at inception was at least partially politicoeconomical, to prevent " to prevent price competition with bakers for wheat and rye" (Wikipedia). And that wheat beer is by definition, non-compliant.

I had thought that the Reinheitsgebot was completely defunct, but it does indeed live on in spirit as the Vorläufiges Biergesetz (according to Wikipedia), and applies to German-made beers (presumably with exceptions for styles like this), but not to imports. Quite possibly the reason we don't see zanier craft brewing out of the good old BRD.

Four Freigeist bottles. Note the glue lines marking previous labels from where bottles have been completely re-used, as compared to America, where you wait in a giant line for a machine to fail reading it 8 times in a row, ultimately smash it into shards, and dispense a five-cent gift certificate to  Fred Meyer.
Anyway, this beer is good, if not particularly spiced (to my perception) beyond some salt and maybe coriander, a hallmark of the style. But hey, in a country where spice in beer seems to still be literally illegal, that's got to count for something.

Tuesday, July 21, 2015

Getting S.M.A.S.H.ed

Portland Brewing Summer S.M.A.S.H

The acronym stands for Single Malt and Single Hop. Which malt? Which hops? It doesn't say on the bottle, but I looked it up and it was Simcoe and Goldpils Vienna, which might explain why I didn't really like it. I was guessing Cascade. Some slightly resiny hops were all that was coming through. I mean, there's a reason brewers normally use multiple varieties of these things, and the 'single' versions are to usually showcase a specific strain (Mosaic is popular for this), which may not yield the most delicious end product if the ingredient isn't versatile enough. This one could use more balance, but on the upside, it was quite inexpensive, as Portland Brewing beers tend to be, which handily lowers the barrier to entry.

This is going to sound awful, but it tastes better if you drink it faster. That is to say, don't sip it. You get more malt by drinking it a little quicker, and I'd buy that it's pilsner malt.

Portland Brewing claims they're out to brew the best craft beer in Portland. I don't buy that for a second. There's something to be said for value though, so maybe they are out to brew the cheapest craft beer in Portland; I'd buy that. And I did.

Friday, July 17, 2015

Can a good thing be improved upon?

Freigeist AbraxXxas Pear Lichtenhainer

Let me say first that I love the original version of this beer, even if it's not the Abraxas that everyone gets themselves so worked up about. This one has more 'x's. And a picture of Herman Hesse smoking a cigar on the label. Anyway, it seems there are in fact several versions of this, including a peated (!!!) version, and maybe an apple one as well. The first one I ever had struck me as extra smoky, but it was following (or preceding?) some distilled Schlenkerla at Pizza Paradiso, so who knows. But it was great.
Anyway, smelling the thing, it smells great. Like the original. What the hell is a 'Lichtenhainer,' anyway? I think we're going with 'Smoked Berliner Weiße'. Seems related to gose, grozidskie, and/or grätzer. Probably kind of an old style, a lacto sour (but not too sour) made with smoked malts. Because dear readers, once upon a time, all beer was sour, and all beer was made with smoked malt. What a time it must have been to be alive.
I love the labels on these, by the way. It's a shame I've never really gotten a chance to see them side by side in person, because they're different primary colors, and cool hand-lettered titles. But Shelton Bros doesn't seem to push the rest of the line very hard, and it's a smallish experimental arm of a German brewery, so presence in this market is going to be limited to begin with.
So the pear only really appears at the beginning of your sip. It feels like juice, and tastes a little bit like juice. I wish I had an original to do a side-by-side, but I deliberately left one bottle of the original at Beer Mongers when I last bought it (months ago), as I explained to the proprietor, for someone else to discover it. He seemed amused and pleased by this (he was also a big fan of the beer of course, which was why it was in the shop).
So yeah, mostly just the original Abraxxxas (a vaguely smoky gose-type beer) with a little bit of pear thrown in. Subtle, and interesting, the way an experimental beer oughtta be. Unfortunately, it was also quite expensive, so this is the only one I'm going to buy.

Tuesday, July 7, 2015

Lagunitas Citrus Sinensis

I kept thinking this would have tea in it because tea is Camellia sinensis, but oranges are Citrus sinensis, so tea has nothing to do with it. This is dryish and succeeds in finishing really cleanly which is a challenge with orange flavor of any kind. Especially considering the appearance, which contains  a serious amount of suspended pulp.

It's got some bitterness to it, but it's not really hoppy; the bitterness feels like it comes more from orange rind. Anyway, this is inexpensive and a winner in terms of getting orange flavor pretty bang-on. And I think they're only making it once! So go get some.

Oh and before I go, a note to you readers, although I realize there are not (m)any of you. I don't do paid endorsements for
beer or anything else (though only because I have not been offered to do so). Even when Vermont Brewers Fest admitted me after the festival sold out, I still paid for my ticket just like everyone else. And I don't even know if I wrote an article about it. (Editor's note: I did not. My record of Vermont stops mere hours before the festival. It was a great time though, and I promise to dig up my notes and photos and write up a piece on it soon.) I also don't get any ad revenue (So if you see any ads, feel free to ignore them. Don't you have AdBlock?). That makes this a labor of love, and to clarify, that refers to a love of beer, dear readers, not of you. Except Yandex.ru. I love you, Yandex.ru. (Editor's Note: Yandex.ru's search engine spider is generally the sole source of traffic to this website. So don't mess up its cobwebs.)

Friday, July 3, 2015

pFriem Barrel-Aged Flanders Red

Well, this one comes in a corked and caged demi; you know, that format I swore to never buy in again. But it sounded really good, and only cost $8 or $9 for a 13oz bottle! Ha; 'only'! It certainly does skew my perception of value. But on paper, this looks like something I'll really enjoy, so I accept the expense.

The beverage is difficult to smell, due mainly to the fan I have positioned roughly 18 inches from my face, due to the fact that Portland this summer is hot, on the order of Satan's scrotum. (How do I capitalize this? One 's'? Neither 's'? Both 's's? How do I pluralize 's'?). My brain can't think in the heat, and I can't convince the frigid, conditioned living room air to waft into my room, since neither fan that I mail-ordered has arrived, likely on account of the orders are all backed up on account of everybody and their mother wants fans now, and come winter, we'll all want storage space to hold them, and you'll be able to barter a useless space heater (which I also have) for three of 'em. Now one of these fans, I tried to go to the store to get, but they were out of stock. The next day when I looked online, they claimed they were back in stock, but you have to get up pretty early to fool me these days, so it will be arriving by way of some poor courier who has to lug it up the steps. Courier, if you are reading this, I owe you a beer. Please write your selection, along with an angry note about how much shit of mine you have had to drag up those fucking steps, in my mailbox, and I will do my best to accommodate.

Anyway, this beer smells pretty good. It looks pretty dark, on account of I have all the lights off or dimmed because it's so fucking hot. Clearish red-amber with small bubbles. What did you expect? If you are the type of person (not that I believe in 'types' of person) who wants to stare at their beer all day (okay, I believe in this type of person, but I hope to never encounter them), then I don't understand you and you should probably quit reading now. So the smell is sour and a little funky, like tart cherries and red currants or lingonberries.

And, as most things that humans consume, it tastes a lot like it smells. It's pretty decently balanced, but it's got a big wild yeast kick, and I want to say Brettanomyces. Speaking of kick, the music I'm listening to just hit the point where the compressor goes crazy, and it feels like your brain is trying to escape your skull on the downbeat, via your ears, but somehow in a way that's not wholly unpleasant. Anyway, it's sour, and has a definitely apple cider vinegar component, but it's not bad. It's more sour that way than you'd expect from "Flanders Red Ale," and especially from one that's aged in oak (Pinot Noir barrels) for 18 months. Which incidentally, is not super-evident to me, but I'd have to have them side-by-side, I suppose. Should've thought of that at the store, I guess.

The texture is pretty nice, the carbonation is brisk, and I'm assuming it's bottle conditioned or else the other bottle of this languishing in my luxurious beer cellar (I rent a locker in a climate/humidity-controlled subterranean 12" concrete bunker, and if this sounds awesome to you as well, hit me up. I get a referral bonus. And this blog is strictly non-profit. No ads, or if there are any, you should block them. They don't pay me, and to be honest, even in a stream-of-conscious format, I'm pretty sure I spend more time writing this blog than its collective readership spends reading it, combined. Which says something about me, and also about you, and I'm trying to work out whether either statement is complimentary. Or complementary?)

Some of the elevation in language on this blog, I should note, is due to my sixth-grade English teacher, into whom I ran (I don't make the grammar rules, I just follow 'em) whilst waiting for breakfast last month. Not that I waited the entire month. Anyway, she asked if I was still writing, and insisted that I ought to be, and this poor blog was the only example I could muster. So if you are reading, yes—I am still writing! And trying to read more Hunter S. Thompson. And occasionally starting sentences with conjunctions. My school psychologist from the time was there as well, as was my sixth grade math teacher (yes, all these truly wonderful people still find time to keep up with each other, and with me!), so if either of you are reading, cheers to you as well!

As the beer warms, it mellows out a bit, but the lingering mouth-coating aftertaste means you'll want a glass of water handy. Though many of the popular sours du jour have this character, I'm not going to let that convince me it's good. I once spoke with a beer rep (whose name and affiliation will be omitted, like every other relevant detail on this blog) who noted that Cantillon once made great beer, but once demand spiked, their quality dropped and the beers turned to essentially vinegar. I hadn't had 'old' Cantillon, but for the new stuff, I agree wholeheartedly with his assesment. He further said that this vinegar beer was associated with their famous, popular name, and that neophytes assumed that this is what 'good' sour beer ought to taste like, hence proliferation of vinegar beer.

In conclusion, this beer is good: more sour (and funky) than I'd expect from a Flanders Red, and expensive, but not criminally so. Cheaper than a St. Bon Chien. And local! I'll either save or trade my other bottle, but I'm not rushing back to the overpriced grocery store for another any time soon.

Editor's Note: I consumed the other bottle around 9 months later and it was great.

Monday, June 1, 2015

Beer and Loathing in Virginia - Everything Old is New Again

First off, a big shout-out to Yandex (a Russian search engine/page spider), the Number One Reader of Beer and Loathing! One day maybe this blog will be read by humans, and maybe they will find it through Yandex.

O'Connor Norfolk Canyon Pale Ale

It's bright, crisp, and clean, but not too hoppy. Refreshing and approachable; doesn't smell like much of anything. Taste has a sort of biscuity malt too, I guess. Basically the kind of beer I don't ordinarily drink because my palate has been addled by alderwood smoke, mission figs, vanilla beans, whole-cone hops, yuzus, and other inexplicable adjuncts. But it's good. Totally unobjectionable except for the picture of the fish on the bottle. Fish scare me.

Devil's Backbone Azrael

This smells kind of 'off' to me, but it tastes fine. Belgian yeast is the star player here, with that special bubblegum character you may or may not care for yourself. Sweet, honeyish malt, and while I think it's been lightly hopped, I would guess that this beer has been balanced with coriander, but definitely not overdone. Cool label too, featuring Azrael, the archangel of death. The beer itself does not make me wish I were dead, so I am confused of its etymological origin. I'll ask Jason the next time I see him...